Shed Design Factors

Site

There are a few essential requirements to consider when selecting a site for your compost-bedded loafing shed. Firstly, you should ensure there is enough space between the new loafing shed and any existing structures that may block airflow. Building too close to existing sheds, silos, or other obstructions could affect the amount of moisture and heat that can be removed from the loafing area.

An ideal site should also be elevated slightly to allow for the diversion of any rain away from the bedding area and be in a position which minimises the environmental risk of any potential seepage from the compost base.

The base underneath your compost pack is also an important consideration. Gravel or road base are both practical (and generally cost-effective) bases, but concrete is also an option. Concrete has no advantages as a base in a compost-bedded loafing barn, so if your local regulations allow you to use a gravel base that is likely the best choice.

Orientation

Most dairy farmers have had the most success orienting their loafing barns east-west rather than north-south. An east-west orientation will help you to take advantage of the prevailing winds and avoid late afternoon sun shining in your barn and heating it beyond comfortable temperatures for your herd.

Size & Height

The size of your loafing barn is going to depend on the size of your herd. The barn cannot be overstocked to ensure the compost pack remains healthy and dry. To estimate the size you’ll need, it’s a good idea to allow for a 13-metre square area per cow. This would mean for a comfortable barn for 200 cows, you’ll need 2600 metres square floor area, or a 26 x 100 m shed. 

In terms of height, having the largest sidewall opening possible (the space between the ground or retaining wall and the eaves) will assist in providing enough ventilation. As a minimum, you’ll likely need a 3.6m sidewall opening, increasing to 4m if your loafing shed has a width of more than 12m. When calculating your sidewall opening height, be sure to factor in the height of any retaining walls required to keep the bedding in place. Our experts can advise on the best shed height for your specific requirements. 

Ventilation

Ventilation is vital to keep the temperature comfortable, the compost composting, and the cows happy. You need good airflow, consistently delivering fresh oxygen into your shed. Proper ventilation can be achieved by using ridge vents, large ventilation fans, and a design and location that maximises natural ventilation.

Keep in mind though, that too much ventilation can cause difficulties in controlling the temperature, and make it difficult to keep the shed comfortably warm for your cows.

Ridge Vents 

A ridge vent is an opening located along the central ridge of your shed. Ridge vents help with ventilation by creating a convection effect. Hot air rises and exits through the vent, which in turn pulls in more fresh, cooler air from the sidewall openings. The pitch of your roof is also essential to ensure the effectiveness of a ridge vent. Not steep enough, and there won’t be a significant enough difference between the hot and cold air to create a convection effect.

For sufficient heat dispersal, we recommend a minimum of a 75mm ridge opening for every three metres of width, and a minimum 300mm opening for loafing sheds less than 12m wide. For example, a 30m wide shed would need a 750mm wide vent (10 x 75mm = 750mm). 

Our design consultants can help you determine a suitable roof pitch and ridge vent width depending on the size, location, wind rating region and other factors.

Fans

Fans can assist with keeping air circulating inside your loafing barn and keeping your compost pack dry. They can also help with keeping the temperature inside comfortable, allowing for a more even distribution of cows throughout the loafing area, and reducing the risk of manure and urine buildups in particular areas which can slow the composting process.

Many dairy farmers choose to use high-volume, low-speed ceiling fans, but box-fans are also an option. Whatever fans you choose, it’s crucial to ensure they are positioned well within the structure, and allow enough space for equipment to turn over the compost pack at its maximum depth.

Design Factors

Other design factors will influence the amount of natural ventilation the loafing barn gets. Roof height, roof angle, prevailing wind direction and wind speeds in your region will all determine how much additional mechanical ventilation your loafing barn will need to keep the moisture and oxygen levels in ideal ranges.

Why Buy A Structural Steel Hay Shed?

When you’re investing in the future of your business, you want to be sure your investment is going to stand the test of time. Structural steel is stronger, longer-lasting, and can be easier to install than purlin sheds.

Because of the thicker steel used for the main portal frames and roof rafters, structural steel sheds are a lot more robust and are more likely to stand up to the occasional bump from machinery as you move hay in and out of the shed.

While the initial investment can be higher for structural steel sheds, the peace of mind that comes with knowing your shed is engineered and structured to last is worth it.

It’s also worth considering your reasons for building a new hay shed in the first place. A well designed, structural steel hay shed won’t just last you a lifetime, it will save you money by reducing spoilage and wastage. Your specific hay shed needs might vary, depending on what you’re storing and the climate in your area. However, the right shed will take these factors into account to protect your produce.

The expert team of design consultants at Techspan can help you get a structural steel hay shed that is structured to work. We’ll help you consider the size, structure, location and site-specific requirements to make sure you’re getting what you need. If you’d like to discuss some of the options available, give us a call on 1800 350 450.

Isn’t It A Big Job Building a New Shed?

That’s where the Techspan Smart Build System comes in. We can provide support to help you to self-manage your hay shed project from planning to completion. Our extensive industry experience has allowed us to streamline processes to help you save time and money. 

We help you move quickly through the planning, design and approval processes. We manufacture and deliver a quality building kit to site. We then connect you to a network of trusted contractors to complete the building.

Need More Reasons?

We’ve just launched a range of pre-engineered hay sheds, designed over years of consultation with various farms. 

The Silver Series is the same high-quality structural steel construction as our custom hay sheds. By reducing the options to three main configurations, we’re able to offer them at unrivalled prices. As the designs are pre-engineered, we can provide unbeatable 4-6 week lead times on this series

We are the preferred supplier for some of Australia’s largest hay producers, and with a network of 1000+ farmers throughout the country, your peace of mind is our priority. We understand that with reputation comes expectation, an expectation we meet every single time. Techspan knows what works and what doesn’t, where to cut costs and where not too.

Purlin Shed Pros & Cons

Purlins frames are better suited to smaller sheds (less than 12 meters) because Rafter members have sufficient strength for these spans. The labor costs involved in manufacturing the smaller size can be streamlined, resulting in savings for the consumer. 

When a purlin shed gets to the building site, everything is bolted and screwed together (just like a Meccano set). This isn’t a problem for smaller sheds; however, for larger sheds, it can take a lot longer to construct, resulting in significantly higher erection costs. It’s a cheaper way of making smaller sheds, however, for larger sheds, the costs of erection can significantly increase.

Purlin sheds are not ideal if you have lots of machinery moving around that could potentially damage the structure. For example, if you use a forklift and it accidentally bumps into a column, because the metal is relatively thin, it is more likely to bend. When it bends it endangers the structural integrity of a shed.

Steel purlins have strength limitations. To strengthen larger spans they have to add extra bracing to stiffen the structure. You might notice on bigger span sheds they will need a knee brace and an apex tie. The knee brace usually cuts across at a 45-degree angle from the column and the rafter. That isn’t an efficient use of space.

Does Galvanized Steel Rust?

Technically yes, however, hot-dipped galvanized steel resists corrosion in numerous environments for much longer than uncoated steel.

Whether it is paint or galvanised steel, any coating is designed to protect the base material. The coating corrodes instead of the core material. Any moisture and corrosive materials (including oxygen in the air) will eat away the coating first before oxidising the metal underneath.

When you have a galvanised coating the zinc will oxodise instead of the metal it is coating.  Zinc oxidises slower than uncoated steel, preserving your sheds structural integrity.

How Does It Compare To Shed Paint?

Paint is the more traditional and cost effective way of protecting your shed against the elements. The steel is sand blasted to clean any mill-scale and to roughen it the surface so the paint will stick. The paint is then sprayed onto the clean steel surface of the metal to provide a protective layer.

The thick zinc rich paint we use providesr a layer of the zinc on the materials surface to further help with corrosion resistance.

However, paint is softer and thickness can vary. This means that the painted coating is susceptible to chips and scratches, exposing the underlying metal to corrosion.

Galvanised vs Painted Steel: A Snaphot

Galvanised

• Average thickness is 85 µm.
• Durable, scratch-resistant coating.
• Galvaising is a more expensive process than painting
• Galvanising is submerged on molten zinc to ensure complete coverage & protection.
• Provides cathodic and barrier protection to steel, ensuring longer lasting protection.
• Greater hardness and corrosion resistance means less maintenance over time.
• Galvanising is only available in silver

Painted

• Thickness varies between 64 µm to 90 µm.
• Generally, not resistant to scratching.
• Our painting process is factory-controlled to ensure complete coverage & protection.
• Barrier protection only. When scratches occur, corrosion of underlying steel is limited.
• An enamel top coat will provide longer lasting protection.
• Painting provides infinite color choices

How Does It Compare To Shed Paint?

Paint is the more traditional and cost effective way of protecting your shed against the elements. The steel is sand blasted to clean any mill-scale and to roughen it the surface so the paint will stick. The paint is then sprayed onto the clean steel surface of the metal to provide a protective layer.

The thick zinc rich paint we use providesr a layer of the zinc on the materials surface to further help with corrosion resistance.

However, paint is softer and thickness can vary. This means that the painted coating is susceptible to chips and scratches, exposing the underlying metal to corrosion.

What Do We Recommend?

There are advantages and benefits for both painted and galvanised sheds. The choice comes down to you and your needs.

Painting is no doubt the most cost effective coating system we provide. Whist it provides adequate protection many situations there are some applications where galvanising is strongly recommended. These Include:

• If you live near the coast it is a good idea to use hot-dipped galvanised steel in your building. Salt in the air corrodes things quicker, so extra protection is needed.
• Animal waste can be corrosive. If you are building a livestock shelter we recommend galvanising to protect your shed from corrosion.
• If you wash your shed often, and it is regularly wet, we also recommend a galvanised shed to ensure longevity.

1. Start With The End In Mind

The best way to approach a new steel building and reduce your shed cost is by getting a clear picture of the end result.

How can this reduce costs?

By knowing what you want at the end of the day, get rid of any bells and whistles that might sound good, but really don’t add to what you want the building for.

So ask yourself:

• What are you looking to build? 
• What will you use it for?
• What is your dream shed? 

Spend a minute on each question and think about the end result that you want. Get a clear picture in your mind.

Keep this picture in your mind when making a decision on the specific details of your shed. This can potentially save you a lot of money.

2. Shaving A Meter Off Here And There Won’t Save You Money

Many price-conscious people think that shaving a meter here or there will save them money. This is not the case.

What will save you money is by sticking to standard sizing. We can definitely customize, and we are very efficient at it, but if you are a price-conscious person, sticking to standard designs, which we do offer, is a good option to start with.

4. Check Whether You Need To Get An Architect Involved

Many people often consult an architect and engineer before contacting a shed manufacturer. This often results in many processes being repeated, which means more expenses for you.

In these cases, an architect will design the structure, get it reviewed by an engineer and then get us to build it.

Often will have to redo the designs to make sure we can build it. We often come up with a more cost-effective design that a generic architectural design. This process involves the designs being sent to an engineer once again to be approved for construction.

By talking to us first, you can potentially save yourself thousands. And if your project does require an architect, then you can easily consult them afterwards at no extra unnecessary cost.

By keeping these tips in mind from the start, you can be sure you will save yourself a lot of headaches, back and forth, and unwanted costs.